A complete guide to CCS electric car charging

CCS charge port for turbo charging of Porsche Taycan

CCS stands for Combined Charging System and CCS2 stands for Combined Charging System for Type 2. It’s the standard for rapid charging in the UK and across Europe, and if you’re buying an EV today, this is almost certainly what your car will use for fast top-ups at motorway services and public charging hubs.

The connector combines two things into one socket. The top part is a standard Type 2 connection for slower AC charging. The bottom part adds two extra DC power pins for rapid charging. When you look at a CCS socket on your car, you’ll see it looks like a Type 2 with two additional holes underneath.

How Type 2 and CCS work together

This is where people get confused. Your EV has one socket that does two jobs. When you plug in a Type 2 cable at home or at a slower public charger, you’re using the top portion of that socket for AC charging. The bottom two pins sit there unused.

When you use a rapid charger, the CCS connector plugs into the entire socket, both the Type 2 section and those extra DC pins at the bottom. The rapid charger uses those DC pins to pump power directly into your battery, bypassing the car’s onboard charger entirely. That’s why it’s so much faster.

Basically, Type 2 is the foundation and CCS2 builds on top of it. You don’t need two different sockets on your car. One socket handles both scenarios.

The speeds you can expect

CCS and CCS2 chargers come in different power ratings. The most common are 50kW units, which give you roughly 75 miles of range in about 30 minutes on a typical 60kWh battery. These are still everywhere and perfectly adequate for most charging stops.

Then there are the faster units. 150kW chargers can add around 225 miles in the same 30 minutes. Ultra-rapid chargers go up to 350kW, though your car needs to support those speeds to take advantage of them. Most new EVs can handle at least 100kW, with many managing 150kW or more.

For comparison, a home charger running at 7kW adds about 25 miles per hour. Massive difference between slow home charging and rapid public charging, although the gap is reduced a bit if you have three-phase charging at home.

CCS vs CCS2

You’ll see CCS2 mentioned in car specs and on charging networks. In the UK and Europe, CCS2 is the one you’re using. The “2” refers to the Type 2 connector at the top. There’s also CCS1, which uses a Type 1 connector and is the standard in North America and parts of Asia. They do the same job but the plugs are shaped differently.

For UK buyers, CCS and CCS2 mean the same thing in practice. Every new EV sold here uses the Type 2 variant. If a spec sheet says CCS2, that’s just being precise about which regional standard applies. You don’t need to worry about compatibility.

How to use a CCS charger

The process is straightforward. Pull up to the charger, grab the cable (it’s always tethered to the unit, you don’t bring your own), and plug it into your car. The connector is chunky but it only fits one way.

Once plugged in, the connector locks into place automatically. It won’t release until charging finishes or you stop the session through the charger or an app. This is a safety feature.

Payment works through contactless, apps, or RFID cards depending on the network. BP Pulse, Gridserve, Ionity, Shell Recharge, and Instavolt are the main ones you’ll encounter. Most now accept contactless.

Where to find CCS chargers

Motorway service stations are the obvious spots. Every major services now has rapid chargers, usually CCS. You’ll also find them at dedicated charging hubs, supermarkets, retail parks, and increasingly in public car parks.

Apps like Zap-Map show you where chargers are, what speeds they offer, and whether they’re working. There are over 13,000 rapid or ultra-rapid charging points live in the UK right now, and that number keeps growing.

Is rapid charging bad for the battery

This comes up a lot. Rapid charging isn’t directly harmful, but using it exclusively can degrade battery health faster than slower charging. The heat generated during rapid charging is the issue.

The sensible approach is to use slow charging at home for regular daily top-ups and save rapid charging for when you actually need it, like long journeys. That way you get the convenience without unnecessary wear on the battery.

What rapid charging actually costs

Pricing varies wildly between networks. You’re looking at anywhere from 50p to 85p per kWh at public rapid chargers, with motorway services typically at the higher end. A 20-80% charge on a 60kWh battery might cost you £18 to £30 depending on where you stop.

Some networks offer subscription plans that bring the per-kWh rate down. If you’re doing regular long journeys and relying on public charging, these can be worth it. BP Pulse, Ionity, and others have monthly plans that drop the rate by 10-20p per kWh.

The maths changes if you can charge at home. Off-peak electricity rates can be as low as 7p per kWh with the right tariff. That same 60kWh battery costs about £4 to fill at home versus £25 at a motorway rapid charger. The difference adds up over a year.

Preconditioning and why it matters

Your car’s battery charges faster when it’s warm. Most EVs now have a preconditioning feature that heats the battery while you’re driving to a rapid charger. If you set the charger as your destination in the sat nav, the car does this automatically.

In winter, this makes a noticeable difference. A cold battery might only accept 30kW even at a 150kW charger. A preconditioned battery can take the full rate. The extra few minutes of heating saves time overall.

The 80% rule

Rapid charging slows down significantly above 80% state of charge. The battery management system does this deliberately to protect the cells. Charging from 10% to 80% might take 25 minutes. Going from 80% to 100% can take another 30 minutes on top of that.

For most journeys, topping up to 80% and moving on is the fastest approach. You’re better off doing two 20-minute stops than one 50-minute stop trying to fill completely.

Reliability and what to do when chargers fail

Charger reliability has improved but it’s still not perfect. If a charger won’t start, try unplugging and reconnecting. Check the app for reported faults. Some chargers need you to authenticate before plugging in, others after.

Having backup options matters. Before a long journey, check that your route has multiple charging locations. Relying on a single charger at a single location is asking for trouble.

Reader comments

Jakk is the founder and chief editor of Top Charger. He owns a Mustang Mach-E and previously owned a VW ID 3. He's a lover of good value cars, especially those with decent space in the rear.